Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, the peaceful Place aux Herbes is transformed into a tight maze of stalls selling all manners of things – from farmers selling freshly grown fruits, vegetables and fine cuts of meat to local craft makers who display some of the finest items made from pliable plant materials, leather and ceramic. You will see entire stalls dedicated to a specialty, one of which that selling rounds of fresh goat’s cheese in a range of sizes, looking like the elements of some tiny drum kit. While most of the cheeses are plain and chalky white – others are adorned with lavender petals, spiky herbs or red peppercorns for those who are looking to test their taste buds. One chèvre, labelled ‘l’introuvable,’ is black and wizened with age, and as pungent as all the others combined. The choice of street food is abundant. Some of the local favourites are the roast chickens slowly turned on closed spits as potatoes are fried in the fat drippings in the tray below, paella piled in pans as wide as helicopter pads and vans selling nems (spring rolls) and accras (fritters made of shrimp or beans). The aromas are incredibly appetising. They amount to what one French novelist has called a voyage olfactif, a nose-led journey through the cuisine and produce of Le Gard.